Being in your element

Posted by  GeoffBrown —May 10, 2010
Filed in Uncategorized

I received a fantastic email from a friend this morning about an experience he had in the surf at Bells Beach this morning. Having a wonky right knee, and on the wat to Lorne to see the Physio, I spotted these sets coming in at Cathedral Rock. Thought I’d share the video and the email with the world …

Oooh I’m still frothing from this morning surfed Bells & got some absolute smokers. The endorphins are juiced & it’ll be a hard day to keep still after the waves I scored this morning. Euphoria peaked when there were 3 of us 30m out past the other half dozen guys out & we saw the horizon lift & began the mad paddle, 2 went wide &  I went straight out – over the first wave, over the second and the third one was another 2 foot bigger than the rest I had taken about 4 strokes up the face of the wave & there was spray flying everywhere & then something clicked in my head & said you could catch this, I spun a couple of strokes & I’m standing on top of this beast & 40m down the line I can see the other guys wondering whether I’m going to make it or not their jaws open as I’m flying down the face of this thing – & I ride the wave all the way to the sand and come in just the Bells side of Winki.
Chuffed

“Oooh I’m still frothing from this morning surfed Bells & got some absolute smokers. The endorphins are juiced & it’ll be a hard day to keep still after the waves I scored this morning. Euphoria peaked when there were 3 of us 30m out past the other half dozen guys out & we saw the horizon lift & began the mad paddle, 2 went wide &  I went straight out – over the first wave, over the second and the third one was another 2 foot bigger than the rest I had taken about 4 strokes up the face of the wave & there was spray flying everywhere & then something clicked in my head & said you could catch this, I spun a couple of strokes & I’m standing on top of this beast & 40m down the line I can see the other guys wondering whether I’m going to make it or not their jaws open as I’m flying down the face of this thing – & I ride the wave all the way to the sand and come in just the Bells side of Winki. Chuffed”

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